If you’ve heard friends mention “PMU,” seen Instagram before-and-after photos that look almost too good to be true, or wondered whether you could wake up with perfect brows every day, this guide is your starting point.
Permanent makeup — abbreviated as PMU and sometimes called semi-permanent makeup or cosmetic tattooing — has become one of the fastest-growing beauty services in London. But the terminology is confusing, the techniques are easy to mix up, and most online content is either marketing fluff or unhelpfully technical.
This guide assumes you know nothing. By the end, you’ll understand what PMU actually is, what the main techniques do, who they’re for, and what your next steps would be if you decided to explore further. No jargon, no hard sell — just a clear introduction from a Knightsbridge studio that has performed over 650 PMU services.
What Is Permanent Makeup, Really?
Permanent makeup is the cosmetic application of pigment into the upper layers of skin to create the appearance of makeup — brow hairs, lip colour, eyeliner — that doesn’t wash off, smudge, or need reapplying every day.
A trained artist uses fine needles (either by hand or with a digital machine) to deposit specially formulated pigment into your skin in precise patterns. Once healed, the result looks like beautifully applied makeup you happen to be wearing all the time.
The “permanent” in permanent makeup is slightly misleading. Most PMU lasts 1–5 years before fading and needing a refresh. This is by design — pigments are formulated to fade gradually so your look can evolve as you age and as trends change. That’s why many artists prefer the term “semi-permanent makeup.”
How Is PMU Different From a Tattoo?
This is the most common question we hear at consultation. The answer: very different, despite the superficial similarity.
A traditional body tattoo deposits ink deep into the dermis, where it stays essentially forever. The needles are thick, the ink is permanent, and the artistic goal is usually a bold, designed image.
Permanent makeup deposits pigment in the upper dermis only — much shallower. The needles are far finer. The pigments are formulated to fade. And the artistic goal is enhancement of your natural features, not creation of an independent design.
Practical implications: PMU fades over years rather than lasting forever. PMU pigments shift less dramatically over time than tattoo ink. PMU techniques produce hair-stroke and gradient effects that traditional tattooing can’t replicate. And PMU artists train specifically in facial anatomy, not just artistic technique.
How Does the PMU Process Work?
Every PMU treatment follows roughly the same sequence, regardless of the area being treated.
It begins with a consultation — usually 45–60 minutes — where your artist assesses your suitability, discusses your goals, and explains the technique. On the day of treatment, your artist designs the proposed work in cosmetic pencil, lets you approve every detail in a mirror, then applies topical numbing cream. Once numb, the technique is performed in multiple light passes, typically taking 60–120 minutes depending on the service.
Over the following four weeks, your skin heals. The pigment looks dark initially, fades during healing, “disappears” briefly around days 8–14, then resurfaces as the skin settles. A touch-up appointment 6–8 weeks later refines the result and locks in the longevity.
For a much more detailed walkthrough of what happens during a microblading session specifically, see our microblading step-by-step guide.
The Four Main Permanent Makeup Techniques
PMU isn’t one treatment — it’s a family of related techniques. Here’s the quick overview of the four most common services.
Microblading
Microblading uses a hand-held tool with a fine blade to create individual hair-stroke patterns in the brow area. Each stroke is a tiny manual cut filled with pigment. Done well, microblading produces brows that look softly fuller and beautifully defined — without looking “drawn on.”
Microblading lasts 1–2 years and works best on normal-to-dry skin. For full detail, see our microblading step-by-step guide.
Nano Brows
Nano brows — also called nano precision brows — use a digital PMU machine with a single ultra-fine needle to draw hair strokes. The needle oscillates rapidly, depositing pigment in controlled patterns that produce crisper, more uniform strokes than microblading.
Nano brows last 2–3 years and work on virtually all skin types, including oily and mature skin that microblading can’t reliably treat. See our nano brows tutorial for a complete breakdown.
If you’re trying to decide between microblading and nano brows, our comparison guide walks through exactly which suits which skin.
Korean Lip Blush
Korean lip blush adds soft, gradient colour to the lips while gently defining the lip line. It uses a digital PMU machine with a small needle cluster to build colour through multiple light passes, creating a “your lips but better” effect.
Lip blush addresses faded lip colour, subtle asymmetry, undefined lip lines, and the gentle volume loss that comes with ageing. It typically lasts 2–4 years. See our Korean lip blush guide for the full picture.
Permanent Eyeliner
Permanent eyeliner places pigment along the lash line in styles ranging from invisible lash-line enhancement (no visible liner, just denser-looking lashes) to defined classic lines and bold winged styles.
It’s particularly transformative for contact lens wearers, people with sensitive eyes, and anyone who wants polished eyes without daily application. Eyeliner lasts 3–5 years — the longest-lasting PMU service. See our permanent eyeliner guide.
Who Is PMU For?
PMU suits a wide range of people, but certain groups particularly benefit.
Busy professionals who want to save time from their morning routine. Parents of young children who can’t always find 20 minutes for makeup. Frequent travellers who want to wake up polished. Athletes whose makeup smudges during workouts. Contact lens wearers and those with sensitive eyes. Anyone with sparse, asymmetrical, or over-plucked brows. People with faded lip colour or subtle lip asymmetry. Post-cancer recovery clients rebuilding features lost during treatment. Older clients restoring definition that’s softened with age.
If you’ve ever wished your morning makeup routine was simpler, or if you’ve struggled with makeup that doesn’t behave the way you want it to, PMU is probably worth exploring.
Who Isn’t PMU Suitable For?
A responsible artist will tell you honestly if PMU isn’t right for you. You shouldn’t have PMU if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, under 18, taking blood thinners without medical clearance, undergoing chemotherapy, prone to keloid scarring, or dealing with active skin conditions in the treatment area.
A thorough consultation will screen for these factors before booking any treatment.
How Long Does PMU Last?
Longevity depends on the technique and your skin type:
- Microblading: 12–24 months
- Nano brows: 24–36 months
- Korean lip blush: 24–48 months
- Permanent eyeliner: 36–60 months
Within each technique, your specific longevity is affected by skin type (oily skin fades pigment faster), sun exposure (UV is the biggest fader of PMU), skincare actives (retinoids and acids accelerate fading), and the quality of the initial work.
Most clients book a colour refresh every 18–24 months to maintain their result at peak appearance.
Is PMU Safe?
When performed by a qualified, registered artist in a properly equipped studio, PMU is very safe. The procedure uses single-use sterile needles, medical-grade pigments, hospital-level hygiene, and topical numbing for comfort.
The UK requires PMU artists to be registered with their local council. However, the industry is under-regulated relative to its risks, meaning standards vary widely between practitioners. Choosing a qualified artist matters enormously — both for safety and for results.
For full guidance on what to look for in a PMU artist, see our guide to choosing the best PMU artist in London.
How Much Does PMU Cost in London?
At premium London studios, expect approximately:
- Microblading: £500–£750 (including touch-up)
- Nano brows: £600–£850 (including touch-up)
- Korean lip blush: £600–£900 (including touch-up)
- Permanent eyeliner: £400–£800 depending on style
Cheaper options exist — sometimes dramatically cheaper. We strongly advise against budget PMU. The cost of correcting bad work is typically 2–3x the cost of doing it well initially, and the emotional cost of living with disappointing results is substantial.
What Does PMU Feel Like?
Most clients rate the discomfort at 2–4 out of 10 with proper topical numbing. The sensation differs by technique: microblading feels like light scratching, nano brows feel like a fine vibration, lip blush is slightly more intense (lips are more sensitive), and eyeliner is generally the most comfortable.
Nobody describes PMU as painful when performed by a skilled artist using proper numbing protocols. It’s more like a slightly uncomfortable scratch.
What About Healing?
PMU healing follows a predictable arc across all techniques:
- Days 1–3: Dark, defined, slightly swollen
- Days 4–7: Scabbing or flaking begins
- Days 8–14: “Ghosting” phase — work looks faded or disappeared
- Days 15–30: True colour gradually returns
- Weeks 6–8: Touch-up appointment refines and locks in result
The most important aftercare rule is the same across techniques: don’t pick, scratch, or rub the treated area. Premature scab removal lifts pigment and causes patchy healing.
For the complete brow aftercare protocol, see our microblading aftercare guide. For lip blush, see our lip blush aftercare guide.
Common Questions From PMU Beginners
Will it look obvious? Done well, no. Most clients tell us their friends, family, and colleagues simply notice they look “more put together” without realising why.
Can I see the result before committing? Yes — at your appointment, your artist will design the proposed work in cosmetic pencil and let you approve every detail before applying any pigment.
What if I don’t like it? Reputable artists adjust at the touch-up appointment. Most concerns can be addressed. Removal options exist if needed.
Can old PMU be fixed? Yes — see our microblading correction guide. Many faded, miscoloured, or asymmetrical results can be significantly improved.
How do I find a good artist? See our guide to choosing the best PMU artist in London — it covers exactly what to look for and what to avoid.
Do I need to take time off work? No. Most clients return to normal life the next day. Brows look slightly bolder for the first few days; lips can be slightly swollen for 1–2 days; eyeliner can have minor puffiness for a day. None of it is dramatic enough to require time off.
What Are the Next Steps?
If PMU sounds interesting and you’d like to explore further, here’s the typical path:
- Research the techniques. Read this site’s individual guides on microblading, nano brows, lip blush, and eyeliner to understand which technique might suit you.
- Look at portfolios. Find artists whose healed work you admire. Look at multiple clients, not just the best photo. Focus on healed results, not immediately-after photos.
- Book a consultation. Most reputable studios offer free consultations. This is where you’ll get personalised advice, see work in person, and discuss whether you’re a good candidate for the technique you’re considering.
- Take time to decide. Reputable artists don’t pressure you to book on the day. PMU is a 1–5 year commitment — take a few days to reflect.
- Prepare properly. If you book treatment, follow your artist’s preparation guidelines carefully in the week before your appointment.
For the complete picture across all PMU services and what to expect at every stage, our pillar guide on permanent makeup in London is the comprehensive reference.
Ready to Explore PMU at Our Knightsbridge Studio?
If you’d like to discuss whether PMU could work for you, we offer free consultations at our Knightsbridge studio with no pressure to book. You’ll meet Olivia, see our healed portfolio in person, and leave with clarity on whether PMU is right for you — and if so, which technique would suit you best.
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Internal Links From This Post:
- Pillar page: Complete Guide to Permanent Makeup in London
- Post #1: Microblading Step-by-Step
- Post #2: Nano Brows Tutorial
- Post #4: Microblading vs Nano Brows
- Post #6: Microblading Aftercare
- Post #9: Lip Blush Aftercare
- Post #12: Best Microblading Artist in London
- Consultation booking page (primary CTA)